Undertow Shawlette Part Three: Section A

The next part of the pattern is my own variation on an antique Shetland Lace stitch called: Crest of the Wave (a close relative of Old Shale aka Feather and Fan/a Victorian renaming of Old Shale). If you read about these old Shetland stitches, the stories are amazing and the stitches were very much inspired by the world around these past knitting relatives of ours — as we all of course, belong to each other in one big family of Knitters and Fiber Artists. Old Shale mimicked the waves of the ocean on a beach of shale, spider lace looks just like little wee spiders that must have been up in the ceiling corners of the cottages they lived and knit within. There’s so much more to this heritage. Sharon Miller is the best source I can think of. Martha probably will put other citations/authors in the comment section so take a look in a day or so.

Getting back to the business at hand, the next part of the shawl will draw down all those eyelets you just made in the garter section into a ripple that looks like the bubbles at the top of a wave; just as the undertow in the flow of the ocean would draw a swimmer down into its own natural movement. The technique uses what are called delayed decreases…all the increases are together in one place and all the decreases that balance out the increases (keeping the stitch count the same) come later all in one separate section. Depending on how you use delayed decreases you can bend a fabric in many ways; creating a bias (slanted) fabric, or zig zags, or wavy ripples as we are in this lively shawlette. (Thanks to Maggie Boga for the illustrative photograph!)

SECTION A:
Undertow–
Row 1: k3, yo, kfb, k1, pm, *[k2tog X 2, (yo, k1) X 3, yo, ssk X 2]; repeat from * X 17, (consider placing a marker between each 11 stitch repeat because the number of pattern repeats will increase as the shawl enlarges), pm, kfb, k1, yo, k3.

Row 2: k3, p to last three sts, k3.
Row 3: k3, yo, kfb, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.
Row 4: k3, p to last three sts, k3.

Row 5: k3, yo, kfb, k to first m, sl m, *[k2tog X 2, (yo, k1) X 3, yo, ssk X 2]; repeat from * X 17, sl m, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.

Row 6: k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 7: k3, yo, kfb, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.
Row 8: k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 9: k3, yo, kfb, k4, yo, k1, yo, ssk X 2, sl m, *[k2tog X 2, (yo, k1) X 3, yo, ssk X2]; repeat from * X 17, sl m, k2tog X 2, yo, k1, yo, k3, kfb, k1, yo, k3.

Row 10: k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 11: k3, yo, kfb, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.
Row 12: k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Wave Crest–
Row 13: k3, yo, kfb, k2, pm, *[k2tog X 2, (yo, k1) X 3, yo, ssk X 2]; repeat from * X 19, pm, k1, kfb, k1, yo, k3.

Row 14: KNIT
Row 15: k3, yo, kfb, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.
Row 16: KNIT
Row 17: k3, yo, kfb, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.
Row 18: KNIT

end of Section A.

You will begin with a piece of fabric that looks like this:

And end with a much wider piece of fabric that looks like this:

I think I might have been interested in physics and engineering if someone had only pointed out how the basic principles work in knitting! Instead, now it will always be some Higher Form of Magic.
And maybe that’s not such a bad thing either…

xx M.E. and Summit Yarn

 

Undertow Shawlette Part Two

Undertow Shawlette Part Two
Next RS row: k3, yo, kfb, k to last five sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.
Next WS row: knit

Repeat these two row twice more for a total of six rows (you will have three garter ridges, 97 stitches total).

Next RS row: k3, *(yo, k1); repeat from * to last three sts, yo, k3.
Next WS row: knit (189 sts).
Next RS row: k3, yo, kfb, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.
Next WS row: knit (193 sts).
Next RS row: k3, yo, kfb, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.
Next WS row: knit (197 sts).

The next part of the pattern is where the UNDERTOW magic happens. I am working on a lace weight yarn from Araucania called: Nuble on US4 needles. You, of course can choose your own yarn weight with appropriate needles. If you work in lace to sock weight, budget 400-600 yards of yarn, or more for a larger shawl. This will be crescent shaped, but the shaping is a new idea which will keep the shawl on your shoulders nicely. If you find any math errors, please let me know. More tomorrow! ;-D

xx M.E. and Summit Yarn

 

Shawlette KAL UPDATED

UNDERTOW SHAWLETTE

Cast on 3 sts and knit six rows.

Turn the garter tab you have just knit 90 degrees and pick up/knit 3 sts along this long edge, the pick up/knit 3 sts along the cast on edge.
You will have 9 stitches.

Row 1: k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: k3, yo, kfb, k to last 5 sts, kfb, k1, yo, k3.

Repeat these two rows until you have 3 edge sts, 79 body sts, and 3 edge sts (85 sts total).

 

This Just In: Pebbles by Great Adirondack Yarn and a free pattern

This is a soft cotton yarn perfect for dressing up a plain outfit or just for a little something around your neck on a cool evening. The pattern is a one skein project, cost $12.

Using US8 (5mm) needles, cast on 10-20 sts (scarf shown has 13 sts) and do the following Two Rows for 18 inches:

Row 1- kfb, k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 2- knit

After 18 inches, work the next two rows until there is just enough yarn remaining to bind off loosely (2 feet).

Row 1- k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Row 2- knit

xx M.E. and Summit Yarn

 

Sunny Days Shawlette

If you look at trending patterns (the top 20) on Ravelry, you will see one called: Sunny Days Shawlette by my favorite hand dyer, Carle’ Dehning of South Africa. It is a wonderful knit, one that you can do while visiting or being mentally available in any way. I began mine today in some of Carle’s yarn — greens and blues for Spring, even though in South Africa it is Autumn moving into Winter. More, for the month of May, the pattern is free and there is a KAL on the Nurturing Fibers Forum. The code for the pattern is on the pattern page — when you go to get the pattern hit use code and follow the prompts. If I could manage that bit of technology, anyone can!

 

Beginner’s Intarsia Reversible Checkerboard Scarf — Part One

This scarf has been fun to work on. It is easy to pick up , put down, and always know where I am at when I come back to knit more. It seems like a great way to use up odds and ends of yarn, and stash bust — you need not feel like you have to stick to just two colors. Because this is K1P1 rib it is super easy to bury ends in an invisible manner, which I will demonstrate in another part of this pattern share. Today, go collect some yarn all the same weight — I used DK weight Cadenza by Colinette and US6 needles — but worsted yarns and size US8 needles would be fine too; resulting in a nice size scarf to add to a pile of future gift-giving items, or just for you!

Begin by casting on 44 stitches and working 4 to 6 rows of K1P1 rib all in one color. Do not cut yarn yet. Next row: Knit across all the stitches in a new color. Next three rows: return to K1P1 as previously set in your initial rows. Leaving 8″ of each color to bury ends invisibly, cut off both balls of yarn. Reattach/begin working with the first color again by knitting all the stitches (leave an 8″ tail) then in subsequent rows do the K1P1 rib as previously set — complete 20 rows in total.

The technique of knitting across in one row, and then returning to the K1P1 rib as previously set, is a standard technique (See June Hemmons Hiatt: The Principles of Knitting). This gives you one nice neat side, but not a reversible fabric, as there are bicolor purls on the opposite side of the fabric.

Second Installment: how to create a REVERSIBLE K1P1 multicolor fabric WITHOUT ANY bicolor purls.

Third Installment: how to do reversible checkerboard intarsia with two colors (it is easier than you think if you have never tried it before!).

Have a great day! xx M.E. and Summit Yarn Studio

 

Mystery Sock KAL/Toe-Up Version — The Leg and Cuff

Now that you have completed the heel and are knitting in the round again, you have some choices to make. First: what do you want to do up the back of the leg? I began by setting the the k2p2 rib as before and kept to that pattern. Second: what do you want to do with the lace panel?

1- you can stop doing the increase on one side and the decrease on the other side of the panel and run the lace panel straight up the front of the sock.

2- you can zigzag it up the front of the sock as you did on the instep.

3- you can choose to swirl it around the leg (this was my choice) either continuing in the same direction you are already moving (again, this was my choice) or you can reverse direction and then swirl.

The stitch pattern choices are all there. When the leg is 1.75 inches less than the length you would like complete 20 rounds of K1 through the back loop, P1 ( but the first time you purl you will have to purl two stitches together to get back to an even stitch number ). Bind off loosely in pattern. Someone asked: why this cuff? It makes the stitches pop, it is long enough to fit my leg well, and I had to write something so I chose my favorite cuff. Can you do a different cuff — like k2p2, or something else? Can you run the lace panel all the way to the top? Can you knit on a lace edge? Of course you can, it is your sock. This is your Artwork, my socks are my Artwork. Surprise me and send pictures!

xx M.E. and Summit Yarn

 

Mystery Sock KAL/Toe-Up Version: The Heel

The 28 sole stitches will first be the heel and then the back of leg stitches. Knit to the end of the 28 sts and you will be ready to begin the heel.

HEEL: This is a garter stitch heel with short rows. You will be wrapping stitches, but because this is done in Garter Stitch, there is no need to unwrap the stitches later. You will be working right side and wrong side rows back and forth across the 28 heel stitches only for this section.

R1: (WS) Turn so the wrong side of the 28 sts is facing you. Slip one st and knit to the last of the 28 sts. Slip this last stitch to the right hand ndl, bring yarn to the left around the st to the side of the work facing you and then slip the st back to the left hand needle. (Stitch Wrapped). Turn work.

R2: (RS) Knit to the next to the last of the 28 sts. Slip this stitch to the right hand needle, bring yarn forward, and slip the stitch back to the left hand needle. Turn work.

R3: (WS) Knit to one stitch before the previously wrapped stitch, sl st to RH ndl, yarn forward, sl st back to LH ndl, turn work.

R4: (RS) Knit to one stitch before the previously wrapped stitch, sl st to RH ndl, yarn forward, sl st back to LH ndl, turn work.

Repeat R3 and R4 until there are 12 UNWRAPPED STS in the very center of the heel. R3 will be the final row when 12 unwrapped sts remain. Looking at your sock, you can see the 12 unwrapped stitches in the center and 9 stitches on either side. You are now halfway through the heel.

R5: (RS) knit to first single wrapped st and wrap it a 2nd time, turn work.

R6: (WS) knit to first single wrapped st and wrap it a 2nd time, turn work.

Repeat R5 and R6 seven times more (complete them a total of eight times).

Next RS row: knit to and including the last stitch before the instep.

Pick up stitch two sts below st on needle as indicated in photograph above. Purl this together with the first stitch of the instep (avoids a gap). Heel complete.

 

Mystery Sock KAL/Top-Down Version: Preparing to do the Heel

As I knit the leg of my sock, I resorted the stitches to make it easy to have sts ready for the P2tog to the left of the lace panel. Please sort your stitches so that the lace panel is at the far left side of what will be the instep needle — with 29 stitches. The remaining 28 stitches will first be the heel and then the sole stitches. Knit to the end of the 28 sts and you will be ready to begin the heel.

HEEL: This is a garter stitch heel with short rows. You will be wrapping stitches, but because this is done in Garter Stitch, there is no need to unwrap the stitches later. You will be working right side and wrong side rows back and forth across the 28 heel stitches only for this section.

R1: (WS) Turn so the wrong side of the 28 sts is facing you. Slip one st and knit to the last of the 28 sts. Slip this last stitch to the right hand ndl, bring yarn to the left around the st to the side of the work facing you and then slip the st back to the left hand needle. (Stitch Wrapped). Turn work.

R2: (RS) Knit to the next to the last of the 28 sts. Slip this stitch to the right hand needle, bring yarn forward, and slip the stitch back to the left hand needle. Turn work.

R3: (WS) Knit to one stitch before the previously wrapped stitch, sl st to RH ndl, yarn forward, sl st back to LH ndl, turn work.

R4: (RS) Knit to one stitch before the previously wrapped stitch, sl st to RH ndl, yarn forward, sl st back to LH ndl, turn work.

Repeat R3 and R4 until there are 12 UNWRAPPED STS in the very center of the heel. R3 will be the final row when 12 unwrapped sts remain. In the photo below you can see the 12 unwrapped stitches in the center and 9 stitches on either side. You are now halfway through the heel.

R5: (RS) knit to first single wrapped st and wrap it a 2nd time, turn work.

R6: (WS) knit to first single wrapped st and wrap it a 2nd time, turn work.

Repeat R5 and R6 seven times more (complete them a total of eight times).

Next RS row: knit to and including the last stitch before the instep.

Pick up stitch two sts below st on needle as indicated in photograph above. Purl this together with the first stitch of the instep (avoids a gap). Work across instep in pattern as set without any increases or decreases on either side of the lace panel. Knit across all heel stitches, which now become sole stitches. Work across the instep once more in pattern as set without any increases or decreases on either side of the lace panel. Heel complete.

 

Mystery Sock KAL: Toe-Up Version — THE TWIST

Now it is time to get down to work. This is the most involved part of the sock. The lace panel is going to zig zag back and forth across the top of the sock due to simple increases and decreases every round. Once you work from one side of the instep to the other, you will work two rounds without moving the lace panel, and then you will move the lace panel back to the side at which the panel began, as directed below. It is really fun!

FOOT OF THE TWIST SOCK:
Round 1: p2, M1K (NOTE–with each repeat of these four rounds you will have more sts before the first marker–work in rib as set to the marker and increase just before the marker), sm, p1, ssk, (yo, k1) x 3, yo, k2tog, remove marker and p2tog, replace marker, k1, p2, (k2, p2) x 3, k2, knit across sole stitches.

Round 2: p2, k1, M1K (SEE NOTE ABOVE), sm, p1, k9, remove marker and p2tog, replace marker, p2, (k2, p2) x 3, k2,
Knit across sole stitches.

Round 3: p2, k2, M1P (SEE NOTE ABOVE), sm, p1, ssk, k5, k2tog, remove marker and p2tog, replace marker, p1,
(K2, p2) x 3, k2, knit across sole stitches.

Round 4: p2, k2, p1, M1P (SEE NOTE ABOVE), sm, p1, k7, remove marker and p2tog, replace marker, (k2, p2) x 3,
K2, knit across sole stitches.

Complete these four rounds FOUR TIMES, then also complete Rounds 1 & 2 once more
(18 rounds) — remembering to maintain the new emerging p2,k2 rib sts to the right of the lace panel with each repeat of the four rounds.

Ease Round One: work in p2,k2 rib as set on the instep to the first marker, sm, p1, ssk, k5, k2tog,
P1, sm, knit across sole stitches.

Ease Round Two: work in p2,k2 rib as set on the instep to the first marker, sm, p1, k7, p1, sm,
Knit across sole stitches.

(Two rounds completed; now to move the lace panel across the instep in the opposite direction!)

Round 5: work in p2,k2 rib as set until one stitch before the first marker, slip st to rh ndl, remove marker, return st to LH ndl, and place marker on rh ndl, p2tog, ssk, (yo, k1) x 3, yo, k2tog, p1, sm, (NOTE: with each repeat of these four rounds you will have more sts after the second marker, be sure to increase immediately after the marker and then work the remaining rib sts as set),
M1K, knit across sole stitches.

Round 6: work in p2,k2 rib as set until one stitch before first marker, slip st to rh ndl, remove marker, return st to LH ndl, and place marker on rh ndl, p2tog, k9, p1, sm, (SEE NOTE BOVE), M1K, k1, knit across sole stitches.

Round 7: work in p2,k2 rib as set until one stitch before the first marker, slip st to rh ndl, remove marker, return st to LH ndl, and place marker on rh ndl, p2tog, ssk, k5, k2tog, p1, sm, (SEE NOTE ABOVE), M1P, k2,
Knit across sole stitches

Round 8: work in p2,k2 rib as set until one stitch before the first marker, slip st to rh ndl, remove marker, return st to LH ndl, and place marker on rh ndl, p2tog, k7, p1, sm, (SEE NOTE ABOVE), M1P, P1, K2,
Knit across sole stitches.

Complete Rounds 5-8 FOUR TIMES, then also complete Rounds 5 & 6 once more
(18 rounds) — remembering to maintain the rib pattern to the left of the lace panel as set with each repeat of these four rounds (after the first repeat of rounds 5-8 you will have p2, k2 to the left of the lace panel, after the second repeat you will have p2, k2, p2, k2…and so on).

Ease Round Three: sm, p1, ssk, k5, k2tog, p1, sm, work in p2,k2 rib as set across instep, knit across sole stitches.

Ease Round Four: sm, p1, k7, p1, sm, work in p2,k2 rib as set across instep, knit across sole sts.

(Two rounds completed. Proceed to the directions below.)

Round 9: M1P, (in future repeats of this round ALWAYS MAKE THE INCREASE JUST BEFORE THE MARKER and keep the rib that precedes the increase in pattern as set), sm, p1, ssk, (yo, k1) x 3, yo, k2tog, remove marker and p2tog, replace marker, work in rib as set across instep, knit across sole stitches.

Round 10: P1, M1P, (SEE NOTE ABOVE), sm, p1, k9, remove marker and p2tog, replace marker, work in rib as set across instep, knit across sole stitches.

Round 11: P2, M1K, (SEE NOTE ABOVE), sm, p1, ssk, k5, k2tog, remove marker and p2tog, replace marker, work in rib as set across instep, knit across sole stitches.

Round 12: P2, K1, M1K, (SEE NOTE ABOVE), sm, p1, k7, remove marker and p2tog, replace marker, work in rib as set across instep, knit across sole stitches.

Complete Rounds 9-12 FOUR TIMES and Rounds 9 & 10 once more (18 rounds) — remembering to maintain the new rib pattern to the right of the lace panel as it is emerging with each increase.

REPEAT FROM Ease Round One through Round 12 until the foot is the length you require. Make note of which pattern round you completed last as this will matter after you complete the heel (which will be released next week).

Please: if this is unclear in any way, contact me and I will rewrite or change the wording in a useful way so that we all may benefit. I do make errors, although I strive to to give good knit. ;-D

xx M.E. Langieri and Summit Yarn Studio